Determining the Quality of Pearls

© 2004 by Joy Bescardi; all rights reserved

Pearls are one of the most sought after gems in the world. Unlike a diamond, this meek gem has a soft translucent glow that only enhances the beauty of the individual who wears it. Whether on a strand, a bracelet, or a pair of earrings, this gem is highly appreciated by women and men. In today's market, it's important to know how to determine the quality of a pearl.

Although almost all dealers use the same alphabetical nomenclature (AA, A, B or C) to rate their quality, there is no internationally accepted standard used to grade pearls. As a result, one jeweler's "A" rating may be another's "B" rating.

One characteristic that sets pearls apart from other gems, however, is that differences in quality can often be seen with the naked eye. Once you know what you're looking for, the ability to see those differences is easy.

Before viewing pearls with the naked eye, there are three things to keep in mind.

The first is to view them against a neutral, non-glossy background (light gray or white is best). Viewing them against black makes it harder to see imperfections.

The second is the lighting you're viewing them under. Cool-white fluorescent light or natural daylight is best. A pearl's luster often appears more intense than usual in direct sunlight, and will appear duller than usual in heavy cloud cover.

Finally, when viewing pearls, hold them at a right angle to your body. This makes comparing differences in color and luster among several strands easier.

The factors determining the quality of pearls can be broken down into six categories: luster and orient, nacre thickness and quality, color, surface perfection, shape, and size.

In the world of pearls, the term "lustrous" refers to the brilliance of the pearl's surface. A pearl's natural beauty comes from the nacre (nay-ker), the secretion from which the pearl was formed. High quality pearls have very thick nacre, which glimmers in the light. Low quality pearls appear more milky or chalky to the naked eye.

Examine the pearl closely under light, rolling it from side to side. Light reflecting off the pearl uniformly is another sign of a good quality gem. The longevity of a pearl is determined by the iridescent orient that indicates the quality and thickness of the nacre.

The color of pearls also plays a large role in determining their value (and cost), as some colors are more rare. Body color and overtone are the two principal elements used to evaluate the color of white cultured pearls.

Body color is the pearl's basic color, and overtone refers to the pearl's secondary "tint." In white cultured pearls, creamyovertones are more common and less expensive. Pink is more rare and therefore more expensive. Naturally colored black pearls range in color from a light gray to black, and usually have green or pink overtones. Green is quite rare and results in a highly sought-after peacock color. Pink overtones are less rare and therefore less expensive.

Surface perfection refers to the amount of cracks, spots, blisters or pimples that often appear on the surface of pearls. Other imperfections may include dark spots or indentations. The fewer imperfections pearls have, the higher their quality. It is rare, however, to find a pearl that is flawless.

Two final factors determining the quality of pearls are size and shape. Size is measured in carats in natural pearls, and by diameter (millimeters) in cultured pearls. Larger pearls are more rare and therefore more expensive.

Pearl shapes are divided into three categories: spherical (round), symmetrical (tear drop shaped), and baroque (irregular). As a rule, round pearls are more rare and therefore command a higher value.

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