Heather Kraty
of Island Cowgirl Jewelry

a jewelry business success story

© 2005 by Heather Kraty; all rights reserved

California designer Heather Kraty of Island Cowgirl Jewelry hand carves silver and 14k gold in a way that has been described as "rugged and romantic". Each piece bears poetic etchings and words of inspiration. Heather's jewelry is carried in fine stores and galleries across the U.S., and has been featured in several magazines.

She also recently launched Memory Beads, a retail jewelry line.

1) How did you first start selling your jewelry, and how did you evolve into your current market niches?

I graduated from NY’s Fashion Institute of Technology and had grown tired of living in the city. I went on a much-needed vacation to the island of St. Martin which is in the Caribbean. I was supposed to stay for a week and ended up staying for a year. I sold my jewelry on the beach and soon worked my way up to selling to stores on the island.

I also worked and lived on a catamaran, which took tourists to St. Bart’s on day trips. Those were my first accounts. I went on to spend many years in the Islands as well as in Miami, which is where the "Island" comes from for Island Cowgirl.

I would say my biggest niche right now is the western niche. I live out west now and have always loved all things western. I started putting a lot of hearts and horseshoes combined with leather on my work, and it seemed to be real popular in the midwest and Texas. Actress Hilary Duff even wore some of my pieces on the cover of "Cowboys & Indians" magazine.

I also have a separate niche of "island" themed things, which include seashells, dolphins etc. Obviously these sell well in seaside resort areas.

My newest niche is doggie jewelry . . . mostly because of my Old English Sheepdog, Dougal, who is my constant companion, faithful co-pilot and resident fur ball.

2) What methods do you use for getting your jewelry into shops and galleries (such as sales reps, trade shows, advertising, etc.) - and how did you decide on these methods?

I originally started selling to galleries locally. What I would do is just call them up and ask if I could come by with samples. This seemed to work well, and still does. I don't really like "cold calling," and it is emotionally draining for me.

In fact, a 5-star resort opened about half a block from my front door a while back, and it has an awesome high-end jewelry store in it. It took me eight months to get around to approaching them. I even rode my bike by them on the way to the beach every day and thought, "well, I should go in there sometime." Finally, I did go in and they bought everything I brought and sold it within a month - and here I am again, "Well, now I should go back in. . . . " It’s kind of funny.

What has worked better for me, and what I am most comfortable with, is doing wholesale shows and sending out catalogs to stores I think may be a good fit for my work. I also take out ads in trade magazines around the "show season", which is January and July. Postcards are a great way to reach out to buyers without spending a lot of money. They can then request a catalog if they are very interested.

I also send out press kits to any magazines that I feel may be a good fit for my work. If you are feeling super generous you can send them samples too!

3) What research do you do to help you come up with your new designs and decide how to market them?

I subscribe to every magazine under the sun. It's a business write-off and you can get a good idea of what's up and coming - colors, shapes, etc. Plus it is an old habit from when I was in Fashion School. When the magazines are piled high to the ceiling I have them donated to my local library.

4) How long were you in business before you felt successful?

Wow, I don’t know if you ever feel you are successful. My business and designs are constantly evolving, and then of course you always have new ideas for catalogs, promotions, marketing . . . it really never ends. I guess if I can ever afford a house in Hawaii with a pool boy bringing me pina colodas, I may finally feel successful. Right now I would feel successful if I actually had a full day off!

5) What are the challenges in balancing both your Island Cowgirl wholesale jewelry line and your Memory Beads retail line?

I just started my retail line Memory Beads about eight months ago. The reasons were two-fold.

First, I kept getting requests for customized inscriptions; and second, because I like the feedback from retail. It's nice to send something out and get a note back months later with a story about how it is treasured and appreciated. You don’t get that direct contact when you wholesale. I tell my wholesale accounts right off the bat that I do custom work.

6) How many hours do you put into your jewelry business in an average week?

Entirely too many. I work at least 12 hours a day - and a lot of weekends. I'm training another assistant as we speak, so I can stop doing so much. I do tend to be a bit of an overachiever - I have no idea where that came from.

7) Do you do everything yourself, or do you have help - such as with your jewelry production, your websites, packaging, filling orders, etc.?

I currently have two part time assistants, and I'm in the process of hiring another.

8) What's the biggest challenge you've had in your jewelry business - and how did you overcome it?

Fear. Fear. And Doubt . . . in that order. Being afraid that I had invested a lot of time, money and energy into something that may not work, may not be marketable, may be a complete disaster. I have had several other businesses, so I was used to being afraid and doubtful - but it really never gets easier. I found I have always done better when I tune it all out and just listen to my instincts.

9) What's the best thing you've ever done for your jewelry business?

Bought a digital camera and learned how to use it. If you're trying to sell to someone across the country who has never touched or seen your jewelry, you really have to have great photos. Also, learning how to do a proper web site - it helps that I come from a family of nerds.

10) If you were just starting your jewelry business today, what's the first thing you would do?

Try to develop something that is unique or different about your collection, or find a niche. Otherwise it is very hard to stand out. Whether you do enameling, have an organic look to your jewelry, string everything on GoreTex, have a unique way of wire wrapping - it could be anything, but you need to have something that sets you apart.

11) Do you have any other advice for jewelry artists?

I would just say listen to your heart . . . and believe in your art.

Note from Rena:
Heather, thank you for spending this time with us! Your approach to wholesaling your work and defining jewelry niches is inspiring. We wish you much continued success with Island Cowgirl Jewelry and Memory Beads! :o)

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