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What is this?
 

A Quick Look at
Hallmarks

© by David Foard F.G.A.A.; all rights reserved

Hallmarks are official marks that are stamped, incised, or punched on gold or silver to show quality and metal purity according to carat or sterling standard. Hallmarking began nearly 700 years ago as a form of consumer protection.

Under the British hallmarking system, precious metal items are independently tested at one of the official assay offices at London, Birmingham, Edinburgh, or Sheffield.

British hallmarks are the best in the world.

Who says so? The rest of the world. Although to be fair, other countries have great hallmarks too - it is just that they are not so often seen.

A book on World Hallmarks for Gold or Silver items is a must for any serious collector or dealer, but hallmarks can be a little intimidating and time consuming. Is that mark a Cockerel or a Tree? Could it be made in Switzerland or Germany?

Thankfully for the rest of us, a small pocket book on UK Hallmarks is more than up to the task, coupled with that very useful plastic 10X eyeglass I keep hinting for you to have.

It will show you that the item in question has been tested and stamped, to prove that it is what it says it is (9ct or 18ct, etc.).

British jewelry with a full UKHM (United Kingdom Hall Mark) is generally clearly stamped and readable after you clean it.

Once you are aware of the marks, you will always feel just that little bit better when you buy that 'Could it be an antique?' item at the local market, or from the guy in the pub that everyone talks about but nobody knows.

Buyer Beware....

Five Marks on British Jewelry

Yes... five?

  1. The Maker's Mark (usually some initials).

    Not all that important for everyday items, unless you want to collect jewelry from a specific maker. Silver collectors may want to buy items from say, Bateman (I should be so lucky).

  2. The Assay Office Mark or 'Mark of Origin'

    Tells where the item came from. The most common is the LONDON Hallmark - a Leopard's Head. Before circa 1821, there was a crown on the Leopard's Head; modern items do NOT have a crown on the Leopard stamp.

    The other most common assay office marks are from Birmingham (an Anchor).

    Once there were many assay offices around Great Britain and Ireland - for example, the Chester mark. Now there are just three offices left in England, Sheffield being the last using a 'Rose' on gold jewelry (however, do not confuse this with "rose gold" jewelry, as that is a color, not a mark).

    In Scotland there is Edinburgh, while in Ireland there is Dublin. Pity the poor Welsh are left out again!

  3. The Assay Quality Mark

    This is shown as the Lion Passant (which means "looking ahead") and it is a guarantee of quality. This was later changed to a 'CROWN' mark with a stamp showing the quality of Gold - 9ct or 18ct, etc.

  4. The Date Letter Mark

    Possibly the most important mark, the date letter mark is changed each year so we can tell when the item was made.

  5. Occasionally there is an extra mark. An example was the Queen's Silver Jubilee in 1977. Suffice to say if you see a brooch with four or five marks and one of them is an Anchor with an 18 next to it and a letter 'C' next to that.... It's a safe bet it was made in Birmingham in 1927, or was that 1952, or 1902, or, or, or.....

Buyer Beware the man in the pub.

As with most jewelry items though, our advice has always been to buy the best quality you can afford from a reputable dealer who will guarantee it.

Other than that, your plastic 10X eyeglass sure helps a lot.

Learn more about hallmarking in David's article, Hallmarking Secrets Revealed.


Author David Foard, a Fellow of the Gemological Association of Australia (F.G.A.A.) and former member of The Valuers Council (JATVC), is retired ("Ha..." he laughs). He is working harder now than at any time in his life, especially over the 30 years he spent in the Antique Jewelry Trade as a qualified gemologist and member of the Valuers Council. Now he concentrates on the "three R's" of Readin', Ritin', and Re-ritin' articles, courses and free report newsletters at his Online Jewelry Appraisal Center website.

David says, "There are several other jewelry-related special reports available through the eMail-on-Demand subscription box on our website, so please take some time to visit.

"There is a timely warning on Security issues. It's good advice, plus there are some great tips on Investing in Jewelry, Insurance guidelines and other notes on selling, Hallmarking tips etc. These reports are all free.

"Thank you, and as usual....

"Take care and watch the road."

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