Settings and Finishing in Jewelry

Part 7 of the mini-course
"How to Value Your Jewelry
at Home or Work"

© by David Foard F.G.A.A.; all rights reserved

Let's have a quick reminder about our last tutorial, The Manufacture of Jewelry. After the complexities of the last lesson we should remind ourselves about our last discussion and check our worksheets to compare notes. You can see my handwritten worksheet; no need to print it out if you don't want to, as it's just for confirmation that we're both on the right track.

Remember that if you don't want to participate, there is no need to go through these manual formulas and calculations. You don't need to know ANY of this stuff to complete an online Valuation Appraisal at home or work using the Kit.

We also covered briefly:

• How to identify handmade jewelry.
  
• Why jewelers charge what they charge.
  
• What goes into the final price - because of time.

You should also be aware that much of the older, better-quality jewelry was almost always handmade. If you have items from before 1950's - 1960's you should check it yourself to see how it was made and do a quick mental check to estimate how long it would have taken.

Practice like this gains experience and will help you when you are at auction or at the antique or second-hand dealer's shop.

So what can we expect in today's tutorial?

• How to identify the different types of settings.
  
• Why the size of the settings can make a difference to price.
  
• What fees are charged by the setter.

Let's clear up exactly what a setting is and what a Setter does.

Anything which holds a gemstone, coin or object which is NOT part of the "Mount" goes in a setting and is generally (but not always) done by a separate trade member within the jewelry industry, known as... Yes, you guessed it... a Setter!

Well done, I knew you could do it!

All they do all day, every day, is set gemstones into mounts. Diamonds, opals, gold coins, sapphires, emeralds, pearls and turquoise. Anything that needs setting is their job, but they DON'T charge an hourly rate.

They charge a price per setting ($pps).

And just to make matters more complicated, they charge different prices for different gems and because they are all individual people, we have to average their charges to get a workable figure.

A Setter charges manufacturing jewelers a set rate based on three things.

• The type of gemstone
  
• The size of that gemstone
  
• The type of setting the gemstone is to be set into.

When it comes to the first of these items (type of gemstone) it is very loosely based on diamonds (most frequent, as diamonds are the most popular gem) followed by colored "faceted' gemstones like sapphires, ruby, emerald, etc. and lastly by all the cabochon cut stones like opal, turquoise, jade and cornelian.

If you're NOT familiar with these terms, don't worry, as we will be covering them when we get to lesson 9 in this 10 part series.

In the meantime there are great examples in the Gemstone Index found in the Identification Laboratory of the 20th Century Jewelry Antiques website at www.jewellery-antiques.com. It is worth checking the diamond information there too.

Okay, so we understand there are different prices for different gemstones, mainly based on risk. That is the risk of breaking a stone as the setters usually carry this loss. Naturally then, an expensive, easily broken stone like emerald will be charged at a higher rate than diamond, which is almost indestructible.

The only other variable is size.

Fortunately a small gem is charged less than a larger one. Easy to understand.

So that only leaves us with recognizing the different types of settings generally used in jewelry. We are not getting into exotic styles here.

The following describes gemstone settings. These are by no means the ONLY types available, but are the main ones seen in antique and estate jewelry.

They are:

• Claw set -

  Most claw sets are self explanatory but do come in several styles with various claw numbers between three to eight. They can also be known as 'Emerald cut claw set' which tend to be on the corners, or 'Pillar' set or 'Tiffany' claw settings. The main thing for Valuations is not to confuse or complicate these types. A claw is a claw is a claw....

• Bezel set -

  A bezel setting looks like a 'rim' all around the gem. It is also called a 'Rub over' or 'Rub in' setting. It is mostly seen on gems like opal or 'opaque' stones like turquoise or cat's eye. Many seals and spinners have bezel set gems like carnelian, sardonyx or black onyx. Cameo brooches are often set like this, as are signet rings. Should NOT be confused with 'End set' which does NOT go all around the gem.

• Bead or Pavé set -

  When you see gems set down INTO the metal with tiny beads holding them in place, you can be sure it is a 'Bead' or Pavé setting. Generally used for smaller stones, sometimes en masse to create a covered area of gemstones. Widely used with diamonds, especially in Art Deco jewelry.

  In smaller settings, the gems may be set into a 'STAR' or 'ILLUSION' disk (a small plate which makes the gem look bigger than it really is). Occasionally in small items of jewelry, what at first appears as a gemstone may only be the 'Setter' cutting a star design which is known as a 'Dummy' so it pays to look closely. Beads are also known as 'GRAIN' settings while sometimes the beads may take on small 'Apostrophe' style ticks which are known as 'Moustache' style settings and may be seen BEHIND the gemstone stopping it from falling through....

• Channel set -

  Also known as a 'Parallel Bar' setting, this style has become VERY popular in modern jewelry with baguette or square gemstones, although round gemstones are widely used in wedding sets.

  A 'GROOVE' is cut on either side of the jewelry so the outer edge of the gem (known as the 'Girdle') is held in place. Sometimes gems are allowed to move slightly (sliding along the groove or channel) which adds to their 'Sparkle' as they catch the light....

• End set -

  Generally (but not always) an End Set design is used for 'Marquise' (boat shaped) gemstones or 'Emerald' cut gemstones. It looks like a 'Plate' or Rim pushed over the End of the Gem like a large claw, which it is NOT. It is a hybrid between a partial Bezel or Rubbed over setting forming an 'End Stop' preventing the gem from falling out.

  The advantage of this style is it allows more of the gemstone to be seen (as it is only held in place at either end) which makes it look bigger and appear more expensive than it really is....

• Glued -

  Many gemstones (especially in antique jewelry) are glued in place. Sometimes this is done in modern times to replace a missing gemstone in an old or delicate item of jewelry, so as not to disturb any other gems the item may have.

  It is also used extensively in 'Costume' jewelry as the cost of a real setting would be too expensive.

  Seed pearls (or half pearls) are regularly set this way after other major gems are set. You often see brooches with peridot or ruby, surrounded by half pearls. With full pearls or rounded beads the gem is drilled halfway through and then glued in place to a post or cup which holds it in place.

In order to relieve the pressure, I want to set a little quiz. It will be easy and you can phone a friend, have 50/50, or ask the audience.

Q: True or False...
A man who works for a firm of well respected jewelers in Boston USA and whose family originated in Dublin, Ireland is called...

• a) Anything he wants to be called
  
• b) Power, because that’s the name of his favorite Irish Whisky
  
• c) An Irish Red Setter
  
• d) All of the above

Yes. My twisted sense of humor again. Sorry, couldn't resist the joke.

Back to the plot.

We have covered the basics but still need to arrive at a setting fee.

Diamonds vary between $6 to $9 for sizes up to 0.20pts with more for larger stones or fancy cuts (remember the setters take the risk here). Smaller shoulder diamonds are priced between $2 up to $7 for a full baguette.

Colored gems cost even more because of breakage, with main stones being priced between $12 up to a considerable $22 each, while shoulder gems are priced between $6 and $9 dollars depending on the setting.

There are many variances to this list and by all means accept it is not set in concrete as everyone works to a personal scale. But these are good averages.

Opals have their own price scale as do synthetic gems, but for our purposes the above list will give us what we need in our valuation.

Looking back at the sapphire and diamond ring we are valuing, we can see tiny small beads set into the top, so we know they are bead or pavé set.

The item has several "dummy" beads too, but we shall ignore them as that was just the Setter, cleaning up the design and "showing off". Nice one.

Our "Main gem" is a diamond which I can tell you now is 0.25pts in size so the setter would charge (using TODAY'S prices) $10 for his service.

Enter this into the worksheet: Qty 1 = Style Bead - $pps @$10 each = subtotal $10

The other gems are sapphire and they weigh 0.23pts each, so the fee would be $8 each by two gems. Enter that onto the worksheet with a subtotal of $16 dollars.

If you had an item with more than two different types, you could either write the details on the back (as most people do) or attach another sheet.

As far as "Finishing" is concerned, this is the easiest of all because the item is made from one solid item therefore there can be only one polishing fee. This is never expensive, around 50 cents per item with a final $1.50 fee. In this case $2 should do it.

If the item were white gold or had any rhodium plating done, the fee would be different. But for now let's be happy with what we've got.

That concludes the "Mount" costs, but don't carry it down yet in case we wish to make any adjustments later.

Next time we get into specifics on just what this item is. It can affect price! Stay tuned for Part 8 of this mini-course, Specific Features in Your Jewelry, where we'll cover special features which can influence price, extra information for the description section, and other items which increase or decrease the final figure.

P.S. You can always get a Valuation Appraisal done quickly and easily with minimum effort by going to the Valuation Appraisal Centre at the address listed below and print your Certificate at home or work.

You'll find the address at the end of this article, where there are hundreds of tips not found anywhere else.

Author David Foard, a Fellow of the Gemological Association of Australia (F.G.A.A.) and former member of The Valuers Council (JATVC), is retired ("Ha..." he laughs). He is working harder now than at any time in his life, especially over the 30 years he spent in the Antique Jewelry Trade as a qualified gemologist and member of the Valuers Council. Now he concentrates on the "three R's" of Readin', Ritin', and Re-ritin' articles, courses and free report newsletters at his Online Jewelry Appraisal Center website.

David says, "All of the calculations and procedures done throughout this series of articles are built into our Online Jewelry Valuation Self Appraisal Kit, which does all the work for you. Why? So you don't have to. Simple...

"If you are really serious about getting a jewelry valuation appraisal done quickly and easily, then go to our Online Jewelry Valuation Self Appraisal Kit to value your own jewelry and reproduce a certificate on your own printer at home or work. Couldn't be any easier.

"Our online jewelry valuation self appraisal kit uses behind-the-scenes calculations that work with your answers to a set of multiple choice questions to derive exactly 'What's it worth'. Easy, eh? We use this system ourselves.

"Regards, and please watch the road."

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Return to Part 1 of this course, Jewelry Appraisal.

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